Nothing Cliché About Good Eats

December 11, 2006 at 12:01 pm | In Food & Drink |
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“Israel is a land of contradictions…”

I wish I had a dollar (or a hundred!) for every time I heard someone begin their description of an Israel experience like that.

I mean, yes, it is true that most clichés exist because they bear a lot of truth. Yet, they are also hackneyed, over-used phrases, that most writers worth their salt will try to avoid.

But back to Israel, why is it a land of contradiction? Well, it is home to some of the world’s most ancient holy sites, and yet it is fiercely modern: responsible for inventing the latest cell phone technology, IM chats and so very much more.

It’s also a place where the locals are famed for their bluntness and sometimes “prickly” exterior. Yet it is probably the only country in the world where fellow bus passengers will take a vested interest in both your ability to descend at the right stop, but also that all the other affairs in your life are going smoothly.

For me, one of the biggest contradictions occurred when I was ordering Chinese food with my (then) boyfriend’s family in Tel Aviv. We were discussing what to order and they were keen to request a favorite dish, “white” meat.

When I realized this meant pork, I found myself in a bizarre situation, I would never have expected in the Jewish homeland: having to explain that I didn’t eat pig, because of religious beliefs. In Australia, sure. But, in Israel?

Having said that, I do eat seafood. And I came across this review of a Herzliyah restaurant in the Jerusalem Post that made me want to get on a plane immediately!!!

And to me, that’s the beauty of the contradiction. In Israel I can choose to observe my religious beliefs as I see fit…. And also indulge my appetites.

Here is the review…..

Deep-sea pearl in Herzliya Pituah
By LINDA LIPSCHITZ

I must admit I love seafood and had noticed the recently opened Kazanki shrimp and calamari bar a few times on weekend visits to Herzliya Pituah.

Earlier this month I got my chance to dine there. There are two entrances to the restaurant, although the address is the same - Shenkar 2. One entrance is through a very pleasant wine bar that stocks more than 300 different wines. The second entrance is at the rear of the building. You can buy your favorite bottle of wine in the wine shop and then enjoy it with your meal for a corkage fee of NIS 25. We only found out about this option at the end of our meal, but the restaurant wines are very reasonably priced in any case.

The dining area being full, we opted to sit at the bar. We were assured by the very friendly waitress busy squeezing fresh lemons for the establishment’s homemade lemonade that all the seafood was fresh and flown in twice a week. Israeli owner Aharon Mor said he had noticed imported and local seafood in Israel selling at exorbitant prices in elite restaurants, and decided to open a reasonably priced venue with the same top-quality food.

We perused the menu and, despite assurances that none of the ingredients were frozen, I was hesitant to try any of the mussel-only dishes. I can’t abide the rubbery taste of the frozen variety and am very fussy about the way fish is prepared. I opted for a seafood risotto comprised of calamari, shrimp and mussels. It was delicious, chock full of seafood. The mussels were indeed fresh and tender, as was the calamari, and the shrimps were cooked to perfection atop a rich rice, cream and garlic mixture. My companion had fried calamari with a Mexican dip, equally delicious. We had a bottle of perfectly chilled Binyamina ros to accompany the fish.
The menu, which is extensive, includes a pasta dish; drum fish with roasted garlic and caramelized orange (NIS 45); grouper (NIS 55); many different shrimp and calamari dishes (NIS 35 to 55); and oysters.

As mentioned, the prices are very reasonable: two main courses, a bottle of wine, one dessert and one coffee came to NIS 180. The service was impeccable, a wine bucket was provided to keep the wine chilled, the staff was knowledgeable and friendly, and the decor tranquil. There is a large aquarium in the dining area, and the overall impression is of a much fancier, pricy restaurant. I would strongly recommend this eating house for its good food, relaxed atmosphere, good service and value for money.

Kazanki, Rehov Shenkar 2, Herzliya Pituah; tel: (09) 958-6688. Kazanki also has a branch in Tel Aviv at Rehov Ha’arbaa 16, tel: (03) 561-0630. The chain has a meat restaurant, Porterhouse, in Tel Mond Industrial zone, tel: (04) 796-9666.

Although not kosher, the restaurant doesn’t serve pork.

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